These early liquors varied in flavor and production methods but laid the foundation for Korea’s rich fermentation tradition and even influenced the development of Japan's own sake brewing techniques.
By the Goryeo (918–1392 CE) era, sool had become an integral part of daily life and ceremonial occasions across the social spectrum.
The oldest and most accessible sool was unfiltered rice wine like makgeolli — historically brewed at home and enjoyed by the laboring classes, much like ale or beer in Europe.
Aristocrats preferred clear rice wines — cheongju — which played a key role in Confucian ancestral rites and royal banquets.
Three men drinking alcohol, late Joseon Dynasty. ⓒ National Library of Korea.
Distillation was introduced to Korea in the 13th century by Mongol invaders (who had, in turn, learned this technology from the Persians). Thus began the production of soju, particularly in southern regions like Andong and Jeju. Due to the large quantity of rice required to make it, soju was considered a luxury; if they drank distilled liquor at all, commoners would typically turn to varieties made from mixed grains.
A variety of traditional taverns, or jumak, served as hubs where the people could enjoy sool alongside food and entertainment. Street taverns catered to day laborers, opening early and serving watered-down takju and bean curd; at gisaengbangs, courtesans (gisaeng) poured expensive liquors for aristocratic patrons; and roadside inns dished out hearty soups and regional liquors to travelers.
From this diverse and varied drinking culture came a rich variety of regional sool styles, adapted to local availability of grains and brewing knowledge as well as taste and social class.
"Jusageobaek" (주사거배,酒肆擧盃) tavern scene by Shin Yun-Bok (申潤福), Joseon Dynasty, late 18th century. ⓒ Kansong Art Museum
Domestically produced Japanese-style clear rice wines, or cheongju, became synonymous with formal quality.
Alongside native brews, luxury liquors from China and Japan flowed into Korea. By the 19th century, dining out had become fashionable among Korea’s elite, who enjoyed imported whiskeys, wines, and beers.
Consumption of foreign liquors accelerated after 1876, when Korea was forced to open its ports to the American, Japanese, and European ships.
Japanese colonial rule—which officially lasted from 1910 to 1945, though the process of absorption began some years earlier—is widely seen as a key factor in the near extinction of many traditional Korean fermentation methods.
The occupational government tightly controlled rice supplies, imposed heavy taxes, regulated production, and effectively banned homebrewing. These actions not only favored Japanese sake producers and precipitated the rise of synthetic liquors—they marginalized indigenous brewing techniques, as a result of which many historic recipes and regional varieties were lost.
And indeed, for decades after liberation in 1945, Japanese-style “cheongju” remained the benchmark for quality, overshadowing indigenous sool styles like yakju and marginalizing traditional techniques. Many historic recipes and regional varieties were lost.
The end of the Second World War (WWII) in 1945 did not spell an end to Korea's troubles.
Post-liberation Korea faced a devastating internal war and severe food shortages. From 1963 to 1977, the use of rice in alcohol production was banned to alleviate food insecurity. Brewers turned to wheat flour and starches like sweet potato for makgeolli and soju, which altered traditional flavors and compromised fermentation quality.
In front of Samsung Butcher Shop at Namdaemun Market, Seoul, 1959 ⓒKorea Copyright Commission
This shift led to the rise of industrial mass-produced soju—cheap, diluted ethanol mixed with sweeteners—which was considerably less alcoholic than the traditional distilled spirit (around 14-17% compared to 40% ABV). The popularity of makgeolli also decreased, as did its quality—commercial products were pasteurized, less flavorful, and often overly sweetened with aspartame and other sweeteners.
These industrial products were accessible and hugely popular—indeed, Jinro soju has been the world's best-selling spirit (by volume) for over two decades.
In the meantime, traditional brewing families and methods nearly vanished.
Restrictions on rice for liquor production were finally lifted in 1977. In time, this would lead to a revival and bright new era for traditional sool.
Small-scale artisanal distilleries have re-emerged, reviving centuries-old brewing techniques with emphasis on indigenous nuruk starters, local rice cultivars, and natural fermentation techniques.
These brewers reject industrial shortcuts, focusing instead on flavor complexity, terroir expression, and cultural authenticity. Some experiment with aging methods like oak barrels while others work to reintroduce ancestral varieties found in historical texts.
Today, ancient recipes and innovative new varieties alike can be discovered in bottle shops (바틀샵), festivals, brewery tours, and high-end restaurants across South Korea (and, increasingly, internationally).
Craft sool, therefore, is not only an emblem of Korea's rich brewing heritage. It is also an energetic expression of Korea's vibrant and evolving cultural identity in 2026 and beyond.
Actual recipes differ widely by region, brewer, and style, so the terms below describe general patterns rather than fixed rules.
That said, most grain-based sool starts by mixing steamed rice, nuruk, and water to make a starter mash called mitsool (밑술), where yeast and lactic acid bacteria multiply.
After this, one or more additions of fresh steamed rice and water called dotsool (덧술) are added to increase fermentable sugars and build alcohol, yielding danyangju (단양주, one-stage), iyangju (이양주, two-stage), or samyangju (삼양주, three-stage) depending on how many times it is “pitched.”
Many modern high-end makgeolli and yakju use multi-stage fermentations, sometimes followed by a dedicated cold aging period to round edges and refine aroma.
Moonbaesool Brewery CEO Lee Seung Yong extracts munbaeju—a spirit known for its distinctive pear aroma—from a traditional distillation pot called a sojutgori. ©️ Kim Sun-joo, KOCIS
For a nerdy yet accessible breakdown of the science behind makgeolli brewing, the National Academy of Agricultural Science in Korea published a pamphlet (in English!) that offers an excellent primer on the subject.
Hana Makgeolli (Brooklyn, NY)
JS Brewery (Columbia, MD)
Màkku (NY [brewed in Korea])
Minhwa Spirits (Doraville, GA)
Namu Distilling (Boston, MA)
Nasung Brewery (California)
Newwave Brewing (CA)
Rainbrew Rice Winery (Seattle, WA)
Tokki Soju (Brooklyn, NY)
Yobo Spirit House (NY)
Geonbae Makgeolli (Quebec)
Kim's Winery (Toronto)
Moon Soju (Toronto)
Wondermak (Toronto)
Vanmak (Vancouver)
Gyopo Soju (Australia)
Hoju Soju (Australia)
Jagiya (New Zealand)
Park Family Soju (New Zealand)
Somni Soju (Australia)
Sum Yum Soju (New Zealand)
Ana Brewery (Colombia)
IIUM (Vietnam)
Margun Soju (Brazil)